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Type: Clothing - Garment
Object Name: Shawl
Place Made: Asia: South Asia, India, Northern India, Kashmir
Period: Mid 19th century
Date: 1845 - 1850
Dimensions: L 326 cm x W 140 cm
Materials: Goat hair
Techniques: Twill tapestry; pieced; fringed
ID Number: T94.0849
Credit: From the Opekar / Webster Collection

The twill-tapestry weaving technique was unique to Kashmir shawls and determined their design and colour composition. This shawl represents the technique at its peak and illustrates the high mastery of all the specialists involved in its creation. It is lightweight (because the goat hair is high quality) and evenly spun; its surface is smooth and flat, which indicates that the warp threads were wound with the proper tension; the patterns are perfectly executed and clearly outlined; the stitches are invisible; and the colours are rich and balanced. The dyes used in this shawl are indigo for the blues and purples, saffron for the cold and warm yellows, logwood for the red, cochineal for the crimson, and iron filings for the black. What looks orange is a combination of the red warp and yellow weft, and the green is a combination of the blue and yellow threads.