Coat

coat

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Type: Clothing - Garment
Object Name: Coat
Local Name: choga
Place Made: Asia: South Asia, India, Northern India, Kashmir
Period: Mid 19th century
Date: 1850 - 1860
Dimensions: L 114 cm x W 153 cm
Materials: Goat hair; silk; cotton
Techniques: Twill woven; plain woven; embroidered; card woven; braided; hand-sewn
ID Number: T91.0450
Credit: Gift of Janice Wybourn

The name choga is Turkish in origin and means “long-sleeved garment.” Loose-fitting, open-fronted chogas were worn in India as outer garments. Woollen chogas were popular in northern areas. In the mid-19th century, embroidered chogas began to replace woven ones. A soft-ground fabric in a twill weave of goat hair and wool was embroidered by needle with woollen thread using a stem stitch. The embroidery was executed with great mastery to imitate a twill-tapestry weave. The colours and patterns imitated those of luxurious Kashmir shawls.